letters

From: kevin_likes_to_climb_much@hotmail.com
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: Bulliten Board
Date: Tue, 6 Dec 2011 20:31:43 +0000

Calling all Ice Climbers of Boise area. Please help compile a list of local Ice Climbing locations and routes.

Send all beta to kevin_likes_to_climb_much@hotmail.com

Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 08:43:43 -0700
From: Michael May
Subject: New route
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com

Hi Sandy,

I have established a new route on the short cliffs and there is no reference in your book or website. This route is called "40lbs of pressure" and goes at 5.9+, it ascends the short hand crack to the left of "Unknown Leon" and continues to the Unknow Leon anchors. It was done using gear only and the pro gets very thin once the hand crack ends. I rated it 9+ to hopefully warn 5.9 climbers that this is a 5.9 with some small marginal pro up top, and a fall up top could be hazardous to your health. This is not the alternate hand crack start to Unknown Leon.

Cheers,

Michael May

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 12:01:24 -0800
From: Adam Chitwood
Subject: new route
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com

Sandy,
I put up a route at the the Dark Side this last fall, it's the first crack to the left of Trigger Happy Jackie. Swimming With A Jet Pack 10a starts behind a detached column useing the column will make the bottom of the climb a little easier but won't change the grade.

From: Deniz Erkmen (erkmend@umich.edu)
Sent: Mon 8/31/09 3:00 PM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com

I have just relocated to Boise and am looking to meet local climbers to climb with, I would be happy if you can put this on the bulletin board. I am looking for regular/irregular partners for outside and inside, for short trips and long trips. I would like to climb with someone who is safe and who enjoys both trad and sport, but anyone who is safe is welcome. Currently I only have time during the weekends, though once my schedule is settled, I can go to the cliffs for few hours in the afternoon somedays. I am an academic working for the BSU, am female. Have been climbing for awhile, but am new in trad.

From: Amber Mathiesen (ambermathiesen@hotmail.com)
Sent: Sun 7/12/09 6:44 PM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: rockclimbing/new to Boise

I'm new to the area and am looking for people to climb with. I am writing to request a post on your bulletin. I like to climb sport inside or outside. I'm free on weekends and after 5:30 every evening during the week. Ideally I would like to climb with someone who knows how to belay for a lead climber. A little about me: I'm originally from Utah, I just got married, I'm 25, love to hike, scuba dive, travel, and rock climb (of course). I work for St. Luke's hospital and I have many plans for the recent future....

From: Andy Kittleson andykittleson@hotmail.com
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 8:10 AM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: climbing in boise

I'm looking to meet other local climbers...I haven't found much on the web so far. I've spent the last four years working as a guide on Mt. Rainier and just moved to town a month ago...so I'm excited to explore the area.

From: Kendra Smith
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 8:08 AM
From: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: item for bulletin board

Found Swiss Army knife - Saturday Oct. 20. Call me at 426-4407 and describe it and it is yours.

From: Scott Murphy
Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2007 7:20 PM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: Swan Falls

Hello Sandy, Scott Murphy here. I have been spending a lot of time at swan falls and have recently noticed a problem that has a freshly chipped hold. I believe it is new in the recent weeks. I don't know any of the names of the areas so it would be tough for me to explain location. I don't think we should want more of this to be happening?!?!?!?! But what to do? Just a concerned climber.

This is very disappointing news! After speaking with you it sounds as though this vandalism has occurred at the Manchild area. It seems that there is always that 1% of climbers who don't respect the rock or the rest of us who enjoy the challenge of climbing it! Hopefully this person will learn to find easier boulders to climb (there are hundreds there!) rather than stripping harder problems of there challenge (which truly cheats the rest of us out of our experience). Maybe he should just find a less challenging sport.

From: josh@thepursuit.org
Sent: Fri Jun 22 19:25
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: Bulletin board

From: mtnbiker@cableone.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 8:55 PM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: Found: Quickdraw on route at the Darkside

Hey Sandy, how's it going? You mind posting this on your "letters" or "bulletin board" section of your website: Found: May 30, 2007, Quickdraw on route at the Darkside. Email me the route you left it on, and you can have it back. mtnbiker@cableone.net

From: <barley007@msn.com>
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: New to area need some climbing friends
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 03:42:39 +0000

Hi Sandy,

My name is Joni Fisher. I have come from North Carolina and none of my climbing friends came with me. I was wondering if you could link me to some websites that would help me find the climbing community in Boise. Thanks for your time!

From : Smith Kennedy
To : mail@boiseclimbers.org
Sent : Wednesday, March 14, 2007 10:10 PM
Subject : Raptors at the Black Cliffs

A new nest site was recently discovered at the cliffs. At the top of the Doug Scott route at the back of Car Body Canyon is an owl's nest. From the description she is a barn owl with four fledglings. The BCA is going to extend the buffer zone area and close climbing around the nest. Any disturbance during this critical nesting stage may cause the mother to abandon her young. She will also aggressively defend her young (talons first no doubt). Please respect this closure. The new buffer zone will continue to the broken column to the north of Pabst Smear. Pabst Smear and Stretch Armstrong will remain open, however all climbs from Wounded Knee to Terminal Hypocrisy will be closed.

From: Brian Fedigan
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2007 9:14 AM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com

Hello Boise Climbers,
It is that time of year where the BCA closes certain areas of the Black Cliffs to climbing due to nesting raptors. This is a critical issue and should not be ignored. Without our compliance with this voluntary ban we could lose the whole area to climbing. The following areas are closed: Back of Car Body from "No Dental Records" to "Terminal Velocity", all of Highway Face, all of Scary Canyon, all of Iron Man area, and the Nixon Head. A redtail hawk, and golden eagle have settled in Scary and praire falcons are on the Dark Side. Thanks so much for your cooperation.

Brian Fedigan

From: Adam Chitwood
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 5:38 PM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: new routes

its Adam chitwood . I was looking at your site and saw that you down rated (another trad route ) at Easter island . the real name for that route is ( beginning to an end ). the description that you gave sounds like your going left of the block instead of going direct (5.10). on another note my son Taylor and I have been doing some trail work at green acres and dark side. I'm hoping that with a little more work that people will start climbing on that side more. I also have been putting up some new routes over there. starting at green acres there's ( puff the magic dragon 5.11 a ) gear climb to anchors, just right of that is ( the riddler 5.11+) gear to anchors, these climbs are just right of irreconcilable differences. then at dark side there is (trigger happy Jackie 5.10 b) gear, ( southern bell 5.11 a) sport route , and ( forty six @ 5.10 c) top rope, this route is between the two previous climbs and would be a waste to bolt. these climbs are right of the groveler. I have a few more over there that I'm working on getting cleaned and installing anchors on but the weather slowed things down this winter but it has been getting better so I should have them finished soon. I also put up another climb in scary canyon ( Hong Kong fui 5.11 b ) gear with one bolt at the top to the anchors, lots of stemming to a nice finger crack to the big ledge then a few face moves to the anchors. this climb is just right of married man.

From: Mike McClure
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2007 9:58 PM
Subject: climbidaho.com

Just want to let everyone know there is a new climbing website dedicated to rock climbing in Idaho. Please take time to support the local climbing community and post your photos in the gallery, your spray on the forum, and any upcoming events, comps, news, rants, raves, drunkin ramblings, etc. As long as it is about climbing in Idaho, Idaho climbers, or something that will help the climbing in Idaho grow stronger, put it on there.

From: Brian Fedigan
Date: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 9:33 PM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: Adopt-a-Crag Event

I hope everyone has had an awesome fall and been sending your projects. It is almost time for our Adopt-a-crag event at the Black Cliffs. We will be spending the day picking up trash and rebuilding some of the trails. Because this is a volunteer project we have a few things we would like to have you bring along with you. I will include the list below:

- gloves - water - lunch - tools - steel rake, shovel, pick or Pulaski - sunscreen and/or raincoat depending on our weather.

You will also be given the opportunity to hear a member of Skyline development and a member of Save The Plateau speak. We are a poor organization with limited funds so if you have any extra railroad ties, treated wood or rebar you would be willing to donate we would happily accepted them. The time for the event is from 9 AM till 5 PM. You can come for as long as you like.

From: Tucker Johnson
Date: Sunday, October 08, 2006 11:34 AM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: Response to Statesman letter

Recently, The Idaho Statesman published a letter to the editor, erroneously stating the proposed The Cliffs planned community would eliminate beloved climbing and running areas because of the homes which would be built on the plateau above the Black Cliffs.

It's important to us that you know that is seriously wrong information. A visit to our site, www.thecliffsidaho.com, would have made it very clear that outdoor recreation will be a significant part of The Cliffs.

The portion of The Cliffs that is in the private ownership of Skyline is the "Car Body Canyon" section with the rest of the Black Cliffs still in the ownership of BLM. Skyline will leave Car Body as it is for the continued enjoyment of climbers. To ensure safety for climbers and to protect the cliffs, there will be a set back of approximately 200 feet from any buildings. A trail is planned at the edge of the set back away from the Black Cliffs that will leave a considerable buffer to the cliff's edge. BCA is invited to consult on the design of the trail to ensure that the climbers' best interests are understood during trail design.

Further, Skyline Development will work with the BCA to assist in the continued protection of nesting raptors by cutting off access to the trail from the The Cliffs during sensitive times of the year.

We agree with the climbers that the Black Cliffs are a special place for their activity and have no intention of disrupting their activities.

From: Mary DeWalt
Date: Saturday, October 07, 2006 9:33 PM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: found

I found a copy of Boise Climbs at the Populace Wall this afternoon (Saturday, Oct. 7th). If anyone wants to contact me regarding it, my e-mail address is: dewalt@cableone.net.

From: Michael Lanza <mlanza@velocitus.net>
Date: Friday, September 29, 2006 10:47 AM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: Re: chopping bolts

The BCA is aware that bolts are apparently being chopped at the Black Cliffs. We have no knowledge of who's responsible, nor do we have any real authority to do anything about it. For those who are asking, we are not currently conducting any bolt replacement as an organization, though it is something we've discussed and would be willing to look into; anyone interested in helping out can contact us through the website. We hope that if someone is chopping bolts, that person will recognize the danger he or she is putting other climbers in, especially given that some of this chopping has taken place on popular moderate routes. We'd much rather entertain a conversation among local climbers about ethics than see someone acting unilaterally in a way that endangers our community.

From: Paul Schaefer
Date: Sunday, September 10, 2006 5:29 PM
To: boiseclimbs@msn.com
Subject: Wargasm 5.11a

Hey Sandy, I just wanted to give you a heads up, we replaced 2 bolts on Wargasm (as we talked about). Both of the bolts came out way easily. I brought the 3rd one up and over about 2 feet (into really great rock), and brought the 4th over and down to the right (also into really great rock). We then cleaned most of the bad rock from the area. The 4th bolt had already began to corrode at the last 2 inches. I replaced the hardware with 1/2 inch x 3 1/4 stainless steal expansion bolts and stainless hangers. You guys did a fantastic job on that route, what a nice line.

From: David Potter
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 8:55 PM
Subject: David from Smith

I'm a friend and climbing partner of Mike Stoger's out here at Smith Rock. He is guiding for me at Smith Rock Climbing Guides, and he thought you guys might be interested in adding a link to our website. We are just getting started this year, so any exposure would be great. The website is www.smithrockclimbingguides.com. You can see Mike's info on the "about us" page. There's also a nice photogallery, glossary, route descriptions, etc. Anyway, check it out and see what you think. It would really be appreciated. Thanks, and take care.

Hey Sandy, I am sitting over here at Asana so I thought I would send you this email. Last time I talked to you I told you about some climbs that I put up at the Short Cliffs. I solo'ed them and put in anchors and one bolt for some 5.11 face moves, after climbing them. The routes are between Pink Panther and Minute Man. The route to the right of Pink Panther is a fun crack that ends up on a face, named Detox (5.11a). The next route to the right goes at 5.10 and is named Tijuana T. Thought I would just give you an update for your sight. Let me know if you have any questions.

From: sus@asanapackworks.com
Tuesday, October 11, 2005 8:52 AM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: Atomic Boulder

Hey Sandy, A little over a week ago I sent two problems on the Atomic Boulder. The first was on the backside ar�te next to a small bush and covered in a dark lichen (except where you had cleaned a series of holds). I called this one "Burnt Shadow" and gave it a suggested rating of V Medium (V5). The other problem is the ar�te to the right of the Atomic paintjob. Great problem, excellent ab workout. I named this one "Blast Off" and I think it too is V Medium (V6). I have three projects currently on the boulder and hope to get back up there this week to clean and send (if there is still light after work). Thank you so much for cleaning and suggesting this boulder. It has a lot of potential and a great setting among the bright bushes and trees. I will get some photos next time I am up there to send you. Additionally, whenever you can get out, give me a call and I will show you some other problems I have been establishing.

From: bradley heller
Thursday, September 22, 2005 9:22 PM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: new route

How's things going? I hope well. Haven't heard much from you on your site lately? Are you still climbing these days?... I wanted to let you know about a new route Matt Fischer and I bolted in Scarry Canyon. It takes the steepest line through the broken right-most roof and finishes at the old "project" anchors. I don't know who started that project, but there had been some cleaning done on the route. Still, we knocked off some loose blocks and now it seems suprisingly solid. Still, I would recommend the belayer a helmet, and don't climb too far right or left of the bolt line. We named it Boise Gunfighter and the grade comes in at 11d. Try it out... its long, steep, and a good pump!

From: michael stoger
Wednesday, September 21, 2005 8:39 AM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: new route on Jughandle

Just FYI for you guys who might be interested. Brad and I put up a new route on the Jughandle North Face last Sunday. Beerdrinkers & Hellraisers climbs a steep line inbetween "Wall of the Oceanman" and "Dreamcatcher". It turned out to be a much needed 5.12 climb on the wall. Pitch one 5.12, (3 bolts + nuts and cams), climbs a steep face to a lay back flake and a run out face. Pitch two 5.11c, ( 4 bolts and small nuts to mid cams), follows a thin face into a fun thin corner. Pitch three 5.10a, ( mid to hand sized cams), is a hand sized crack.

From: David Daycock
Friday, June 10, 2005 12:01 PM
To:sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject:Microman R.I.P.

I don't know what sort of a thoughtless ass would vandalize one of Boise's most popular boulder problems, or any established climb for that matter. It is a monumentally selfish act that not only steals a fun climb form the climbing community but also reflects terribly on our sport. Non climbers--including land managers!--probably conclude that all climbers deface rock and do other types of environmental damage. By the way, the damage has been patched.

From: Rokjox@cableone.net
Date: Sunday, June 05, 2005 3:03 PM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: Need a climbing partner

Looks bleak around here. No letters since mid-march? Could we be lucky enough that the interest in climbing locally is fading in one of the slow cycles that seem to be the rule? Probibly not.

I'm getting bored locally. Need a climbing partner. So I'll prostitute myself here.

Bored local Rock Jock needs partner. Been climbing since before most of the locals hereabouts learned to talk. (Now THOSE were the good old days. Much quieter.) Profess (confess?) to being a loudmouth Trad, and with modesty I think I can say that I can still lead easy 5.10. (OK hotshot, so You can do better? me too, probably, but 20' above my pro, I'm still moving up at 5.10 something), Got 100+ lbs of mixed old gear, and a new rope.

Want to spend some time in the City again, and maybe select other places. May have a new wall spotted, too, but I ain't telling, unless I get to have some fun there before the bolt gun crowd wienie their battery powered, top rope hanging, all artificial pro and quick draw pre-placing, Name Waving, book bragging, FA boasting, sandbagging, ethics splitting, hangdogging, (getting the picture why I got no partners in the new age?) plastic pulling, warm weather sucking, card carrying, indoor membership holding, cliquish (is that even a word?), ego polishing, overachieving, moralistic, never drink while climbing, overly secure and never take a risk, sport climbing, crack bolting, SUV driving, (getting tired?) and lycra clad (see, OLD reference), retro bolting, grid bolting, route every 5 foot, bolt every 4 foot, butts all over the face, and drive up the prices at the locals bar.

Out to have fun. This means drinking, smoking and probably chasing YOUR girlfriend around. Good Mormons, good cops, and preachers of all denominations should not apply as history suggests you won't like what I do, or how I do it, and I am looking for a long term relationship....

Also like to single trak, ski (no, I dont use lifts much), and walk distances carrying too much weight. Have been known to volunteer as mule, for others to do significant events.

I am probably ugly, ignorant, rude, smelly, opinionated, cheap, and unlikeable. But I have wall experience, money and a jeep.

I will check this web site out occasionally, leave me a note -- (pretty bleak here, doesn't look like anyone will notice the paper). All the better if you have a bicycle and a dog. If it looks like we have a similar schedule and attitude, I can be a little fun.

Anyone interested in sharing belays and opinions with Rokjox can contact him at Rokjox@cableone.net. For those in need of transportation, he will give you a lift to the crag in his horse drawn buggy.

From: Brian Fedigan
Date: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 8:48 AM
Subject: Buffer zone signs

Hope everyone is having a good summer and getting out to the crags. I have received notice that there are not any KNOWN nesting raptors in the canyon. I was told buffer zone signs can be removed. I need some volunteers to help. John can you send out a mass email to everyone on our trail list about possible removal on the signs. Since most of us have been gone on weekends, I think a weekday evening can work. Maybe on JUNE 15?

From: Brian Fedigan
Date: Monday, April 11, 2005 1:13 PM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: Great Horned Owl

Thought it might be a good idea to post this. CAR BODY CLIMBERS BEWARE, we have a great horned owl nesting in Car Body. Though she usually nests in the back of the canyon it appears this year that she is nesting between Excaliber and Pabst Smear. BE AWARE THAT GREAT HORNED OWLS AGGRESSIVELY DEFEND THEIR NESTS!! THEY WILL ATTACK YOU IF YOU GET CLOSE TO THEIR NESTS!! Though the area around Pabst Smear is not officially closed and no official game biologists have located an owl nest in that area , it might be a good idea to avoid the area. She does not seem to bother anyone who is climbing around Excalibur, however a climber was dive bombed on Stretch Armstrong.

From: David Daycock
Date: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 8:07 AM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: New Boulder Problem

I just wanted to drop you a note about that new boulder problem I told you about.

It is on the boulder directly to the right of problem #119, Night Moves Overhang, in your book. It starts with a sit down start on the left side of the boulder, and traverses on the lower lip on tiny edges and heel hooks, until you can escape about 1/4 or 1/3 of the way out the boulder, and pull over it on a small crimp. It is about a V6. There is an obvious extension, traversing the entire boulder on the lip, but that will be left for someone much stronger than me.

Thanks for everyone who came out and spent the morning posting buffer zone signs and doing some trail clearing on the Highway Face Trail after recent rock fall. We appreciate all the hard work. Remember the area between the buffer zone signs is closed until June or we get confirmation from the Fish and Game about no activity in the area. We may need help in three or four weeks to remove signs from areas where there is no nesting activity. Thanks for everything.

From: "Postmaster" <postmaster@boiseclimbers.org>
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2005 11:30 AM

From: "Brooke Blackwelder"
Subject: Re: Sign Posting Information
Sent: 12 Feb 2005 00:04:44

Just an unrelated FYI regarding Face Canyon. We were out there today and discovered that the top 20' of "Happy Face and Captain Kirk " has come down. Massive amounts of slide debris esentially covering the standard approach trail. Anyway...be careful up there!!

From: "Postmaster" <postmaster@boiseclimbers.org>
To: <mail@boiseclimbers.org>
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2005 11:25 AM
Subject: Sign Posting Information

Hello everyone, I hope you are well. The BCA would like to thank all of you who spent hours with us digging in the mud and rolling rocks last spring. The trail project was a great success. The trails have received a lot of compliments from climbers and land managers. Thanks for helping with that much needed improvement. Many of you know that Boise and the surrounding area are vital to birds of prey. Every winter around the middle of February the birds make their nests, or often reuse old ones, throughout the valley. Several birds of prey, including federally protected golden eagles and prairie falcons, nest at the Black Cliffs. The birds are very sensitive at this time and can easily abandon their nests and young if disturbed. In 1999, in response to concerns about climber impacts on the birds and to head off the possibility of climbing closures by land managers, the BCA worked out a plan for voluntary closures around nesting sights with the Idaho Department of Fish and Game. Every winter, the BCA posts buffer-zone signs at historical golden eagle and prairie falcon nesting locations identified by Fish and Game; by April, the signs are removed from all areas where no nests have been established, and signs near established nests are removed by the end of the nesting season, the end of June. We are looking for volunteers willing to spend a few hours max helping us post the signs. It requires minimal effort and would help us immensely-several people can finish this job much faster than a few BCA board members. We plan to post the signs during the third week of February. Anyone interested in helping, please contact me at fedinidaho@hotmail.com.

From : Michael Stoger
Sent : Friday, December 17, 2004 8:53 AM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : please post

Please note a correction of my route Crash Test in Scary Canyon. After a couple of ascents the rating seems to trend to 5.12c when starting from the boulder (and not in the direct sun, lots of good friction required at the crux). The start from the actual ground has no repeat yet and is 12+ or so.

Sandy please post a note that I am no longer part of Apex Climbing L.L.C since I will be moving to Bend Oregon to work for Metolius Mountain Products on Feb. 1st 2005.

As a parting note to local climbing I have to say that no other place in the area has inspired me more in the last 3 years than the granite walls of Jughandle Mountain by McCall. If I would only had more time to spend on route development I would have loved to devote a lot more time to this place, maybe someone will pick up the work up there.

From : michael stoger
Sent : Monday, November 15, 2004 9:10 AM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : Leslie

a bit of info on the revival of the Torture Chamber. This is a climbing destination in Leslie Gulch that I have developed in 1998. The nature of the climbing is short, some routes would be high ball boulder problems and the holds are not manufactured. After 1998 this area became dorment due to the difficulty of the climbs and the lack of climbers at that level.

This season has seen quite a bit of activity out there and most all of the climbs have been repeated (mainly by the 13 year old Matt Fultz). I found this to be reason enough to post a topo of the climbs on the web site to encourage others to come out there and try the routes.

The only word of caution is, that much like table rock, one should stay away from climbing out there after a lot of rain. The rock becomes weak and holds can brake.

Go to the Leslie Gulch section of the "Other Areas" page to see the Torture Chamber topo.

From : michael stoger
Sent : Tuesday, November 2, 2004 8:21 AM
To : Sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : RE: film/movie

I am turning buffalo rock into a little destination spot. Lots of little routes and link ups.

buffalo crack 11d/12a, buffalo solider 12b, ride the buffalo 12+, body by beefalo 13-, buffalo arete 11+, beefalo arete 11+, slab 5.9

Unfortunately this rock is on private land. Please be respectful of the landowner's rights. Visit Mike's Beta Page to see the topo.

From : michael stoger
Sent : Wednesday, October 27, 2004 9:34 AM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : additional info

Brad and I finished my crack climb in Leslie Gulch (windy tower) from 1998. The second pitch is 5.9 up to a 3 feet wide summit. We hand drilled two anchor bolts for a 100 foot rappel back down.

1st pitch 11a, 2nd pitch 5.9. Can be done in one pitch it just turned out this way.

Refer to the Leslie Gulch section of the "Other Areas" page to locate the Windy Tower.

From : Michael Stoger
Sent : Monday, September 20, 2004 8:10 AM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : Free Kings Highway

After 2 easy pitches pitch 3 (5.9 A2) turned into a 55 meter crack starting out with some 5.11 lay backing into a 5.10 section and turning into in overhanging 5.12 off size finger crack, very strenuous. Pitch 4 (5.9 A3) free climbs the arch at 5.11 (pro is not so good one solid #1 TCU) until you reach the 3 old bolts that used to be the pendulum bolts into the Seagull. From the last bolt climb straight up the features until you are able to place a knife blade from a good handhold. Traverse into the Seagull on small edges, (5.12). Pitch 5 (A1) climbs the ramp into the overhanging crack up and left. Powerful underling moves around the corner to the left onto a small ledge protected by solid gear, 5.12.

After this pitch we rapelled back down. The weather turned bad and the upper 4 pitches did not really interest me anymore.

From : Michael Stoger
Sent : Tuesday, September 14, 2004 9:50 AM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : Scary Canyon

My route CrashTest is fully bolted now and climbs directly over the large roof (Bird Shit Man). It will settle in between 12+ or 13a. Bird Shit Man is a nice alternative now sine the roof will be protected with 2 bolts.

I will also add a bolt to the start of Mind Killer to eliminate the stick clip, or bad cam placement and Blue Monday will receive 3 bolts.

From : Michael Stoger
Sent : Friday, September 10, 2004 10:02 AM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : new climbs

There has been a lot of activity around the Easter Island: Adam Chitwood built a new trial to access the Easter Island and Nixon Head areas, left of the old trial and a lot less steep. New route at the Easter Island, to the right of Scatter Brains:

1. A trad line ? with bolted anchors 5.10. FA Adam Chitwwod 2. Sexual Underground 5.11+, the best sport route at this grade in Boise. FA. Adam Chitwood 3. Mama"s Beefcake 5.11+, trad. Another 5 star climb. FA Adam Chitwood 4. King of Thiefs 5.11b, a bolted face to a large roof, very good route. FA. Adam Chitwood 5. Last Man Falling 5.11d, to the right of #4. Pull the roof just right of #4. Needs some more work. FA M.Stoger

From: Fred Ritchie
To: mlanza@velocitus.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 4:21 PM
Subject: Charity for Adam Hanson

Hi my name is Fred Ritchie and I am an avid climber and Idaho native. As you probably know, Amanda Hanson Tragically lost her life climbing at the Black Cliffs on July 22nd. My self and a handful of people have set up a charity golf tournament to raise money for Adam and Destiny set for Oct 16th. I know that the greater Boise area climbers have been a great support and I am interested in coordinating efforts with you and other climbers to generate interest and awareness about this tournament. We are hoping to raise a good "chunk" of cash for Adam. this should be a great time with lots of prizes and a BBQ after. Please get back to me. By the end of the week we should have all the fliers and info needed to get people registered and ready to go.

From : Michael Stoger
Sent : Tuesday, August 31, 2004 1:10 PM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : Free Seagull

Brad and I free climbed the Seagull over the weekend of August 28-29. I on-sighted all pitches but the A3 crux pitch. We also added a direct start to the Seagull starting at the very base of the large corner system instead of traversing in from the right. The A3 pitch (actually my first aid lead) goes free at 5.13+. Due to the protection situation I was only able to free it on top rope since the crux section, top of the pitch, doesn't take any real pro. The Seagull is now: new start 5.10- / 5.9+ / 5.11a // 5.11c / 5.13+ / 5.12a / 5.10 / 5.10 / 5.9 / 5.9. The Seagull is a great free line now and just waits for a hard man/woman who is able to lay back on 5mm sloping edges without any real foot support up the overhanging corner and run it out from the smallest Astro nut to the anchor.

From : michael stoger <tmstoger@msn.com>
Sent : Monday, August 30, 2004 4:27 PM
To : SANDY EPELDI
Subject : perch

the Seagull is a free climb now. We added a new start to the Seagull as well. We followed the dihedral to the ground and added 3 new pitches this way.

The A3 pitch is now 5.13+ I was only able to free it on top rope since the protection for the crux moves is too thin to fall onto. Besides the 5.13+ pitch I lead every pitch on sight. Sunday we climbed on the wall too long and missed to last boat. We ended up hiking back to the car in the middle of the night with all the gear.

From : Michael Stoger
Sent : Monday, August 23, 2004 9:45 AM
To : Sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : RE: perch

I would like to show you the movie we made of my new Jughandle route "Brave like a girl". It is only 4 pitches but pitch 2 must be the most impressive pitch ever climbed in the state. At 5.13, 120 feet long and a least 40 feet overhanging. The rock quality is not perfect on this pitch but the exposure makes up for it. I am planning on going up to the perch in September and hope to find climbing up to 5.13 on one of these aid climbs.

I also did a bit of work on the old Jughandle climbs. Added bolts at the belays and on some of the most dangerous sections. I left the traverse pitch on the Oceanman the way I did it first with only the one hand drilled bolt. A fall from the curx (5.12) would have a horrible effect on the leader but it is a milestone in Idaho climbing. Maybe some day someone will repeat it.

From : michael stoger <tmstoger@msn.com>
Sent : Monday, August 9, 2004 12:00 PM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : new climb

I put in a new climb on Jughandle yesterday togehter with Adam after starting the first pitch in July. "Brave like a Girl" is climbing the face left of the Wall of the Oceanman to a ledge under the great yellow overhanging wall. Pitch 2 climbs the yellow overhang at 120 feet and 40 feet overhanging to the 3 belay of the Oceanman. Pitch 3 is identical with the Oceanmans 4th pitch. The last pitch is bypassing the origional gully pitch on the right using the arete.

pitch 1: 5.11c 4 bolts and small to mid cams.
pitch 2: 5.13a bolts some small cams.
pitch 3: 5.11 one pin and small cams.
pitch 4: 5.10 one bolt one pin.

From : ron checketts
Sent : Sunday, July 25, 2004 6:20 PM
To : <sandy@boiseclimbs.com>
Subject : dark side , easter island

sandy,
the climb I put up at the dark side is actually to the left of physical graffiti, and not between it and god , It is the largest roof that I know of at the cliffs. I'm also working on three new route's at Easter island . I'll send you the info when I'm done with them. If you could post the correction I would appreciate it. Thank's Adam

From: "Michael Stoger"
To: Sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: RE: stuff
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 08:36:22 -0600

Sandy,

Several new holds have been chipped on sudden meltdown. Some of the holds on it have been enlarged as well. Go check it out, I was up there this morning.

Mike

This is getting ridiculous! At the current rate of vandalism, soon we won't have any challenging climbs left at Table Rock. The Traverse Wall, Stem Corner, Chemotherapy (pitons make bigger holds!), Road Runner, The Fortress, Big Times and now Sudden Meltdown have all been chipped and made easier by some weenie who knows he can't climb harder than his grandmother. It's unfair that challenging routes are stolen from the rest of us. Whoever is doing this needs to find a different sport!

letter copy.gif (1575 bytes)

From : Michael Stoger
Sent : Monday, July 12, 2004 8:11 AM
To : Sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : RE: stuff

Sandy,

I climbed a new line on the Dark Side. It climbs the bottom of Physical Graffiti until the roof. Climb right via a new bolt into God. Climb the remainder of God and climb the new direct finish via another new bolt. The new line is called Goddam and is 5.12/5.13. The direct finish also offers a much better finish to God.

See you later, mike

letter copy.gif (1575 bytes)

From : ron checketts
Sent : Monday, July 12, 2004 4:11 PM
To : <sandy@boiseclimbs.com>
Subject : new route

Sandy,
I put up a new line at the dark side a couple of month's ago it's between physical graffiti and god. It's the most direct line to the center of the roof. It start's with nice hand jam's to a chimney then to a thinner crack with some face moves to the thin crack out the center of the roof. Pull the roof to a two bolt anchor. I'm calling it ( mind games 5.11) F.a. Adam Chitwood. The trad line at Easter island that I did is called mortality.

From : michael stoger
Sent : Monday, June 21, 2004 9:11 AM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : Jughandle info and more!

Sandy,

I was up on Jughandle on Saturday together with Adam and Brad. We had a true alpine approach with lots of snow. My coal was to finish the "Renegade" (see "Mike's Page" for topo) and we almost turned around after the first pitch as a hail storm soaked us the ropes and the rock. After the sun came back out and dried to rock for most part we climbed on and finished the route.

1st pitch starts just left of the prominent gully at a one bolt belay. ( We had to start there because of the amount of snow). Climb the buttress to the ledge using some TCU'S and 2 bolts for protection. Stay right of the wide crack for the best climbing. Belay at the ledge with one bolt and one piton. 5.10c.

The second pitch is the "money pitch" . Climb the double overhang to a ledge. Start out easy up to the large overhang, split by a crack. Place some pro and clip a bolt before you engage into two bad jams and do a full body dyno to a hold at the lip of the overhang. Clip a piton and muscle yourself up into easier ground. Climb the face to the next overhang. The second overhang goes at 5.12b, 1 bolt and 2 pitons.

Pitch 3 starts out easy, straight up from the belay until you see a bolt in a vertical slab. Clip this bolt and climb a short 5.10a section to the anchor. Be carefull not to fall at the 10a or you will hit the ledge. From the third pitch is is 4th class climbing to the top.

On another note I sent a draw up on the new easter island climbs (see "Mike's Page"). Please note a correction to my route 318I it is 5.12c/d and not 13a.

Mike

From : Kendra Smith <ksmith2@boisestate.edu>
Sent : Tuesday, June 15, 2004 8:28 AM
To : <sandy@boiseclimbs.com>
Subject : posting for the bulletin board

Sandy - could you please post this on the bulletin board. Thanks
Lost - pair of 5.10 Spires. size 39.5? May 31st? Please return. $$$$ REWARD.

From : Michael Stoger
Sent : Thursday, June 10, 2004 8:33 AM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com

Sandy,

Here is a topo of the Easter Island as of yesterday�s developments. There are 2 more lines I will develop in the near future. Please note that the correct rating for 318I is 5.12c/d not 5.13a. Also of note is that 13 year old Matt Fults has red pointed 318I. Adam Chitwood climbed the most demanding trad lead on the Easter Island (sorry, I can�t remember the name, in the Topo it�s Adams route 5.11b).

Mike

From : Michael Lanza <mlanza@velocitus.net>
Sent : Tuesday, May 25, 2004 1:57 PM
To : <mail@boiseclimbers.org>
Subject : Black Cliffs trail work completed

Hello Boise Climbers Alliance members,
This past Saturday and Sunday, under cloudy and sometimes damp skies, a few dozen volunteers working with BCA organizers completed all of our planned trail reconstruction at the Black Cliffs. That included rebuilding, shoring up, marking, and in spots re-routing trails accessing the Short, Mid, and Tall Cliffs, Populace Wall, Car Body Canyon, and Wailing Wall-Scary Canyon area. You'll notice tremendous improvement to trail conditions there and that we've eliminated trouble spots where erosion had become a serious problem.
The BCA wants to thank all of the volunteers who gave up a day or two of their valuable free time to help out with a project that was very much needed and long overdue--hey, they might have been able to find someplace dry to climb instead of digging up dirt and moving rocks all day! Seriously, without those folks willing to make that kind of sacrifice, a project like this would never get done. We didn't quite get the numbers of volunteers we had hoped for, but the people that did show up worked hard and got the job done.
The BCA board also wants to thank The Access Fund for its grant of $3,000, and the American Alpine Club for its grant of $1,000, as well as the support of Chaco, which donated $200 and sandals that we raffled off to volunteers. Without those critical sources of funding, we would not have been able to pay for the equipment and materials needed for the work, or for work we're hoping to complete in the near future with the continued cooperation of the landowner, the Bureau of Reclamation--whose people, especially Jim Budolfson, have been very supportive of our efforts and great to work with. Our hope is to reconstruct the parking area at Car Body Canyon that was washed out last September, install one or more informational kiosks on key access trails, and install a gate to block vehicle access to the Short Cliffs.
I'd like to also point out that a handful of core BCA activists took on the lion's share of organizing this project, participating in untold hours of organizational meetings and making innumerable phone calls to price materials and track down needed tools. They include our other four board members, Tracy Wilson, Sandy Epeldi, John Lavey, and Doug Colwell; our outreach coordinator Jesse Edmundson; and especially the coordinator of the trail project, Brian Fedigan, who took on a seemingly endless string of tasks small and large that had to be done when no one else could find the time to do it. Please, when you run into any of these folks climbing sometime, thank them for the nice condition of the Black Cliffs trails.
We will keep you posted on future plans for work at the cliffs and other BCA activities. Please feel free to contact any of us regarding climbing-related issues of access or anything else important to the local climbing community. And check out our website, www.boiseclimbers.org.

Mike Lanza
Boise Climbers Alliance
Access Fund Southern Idaho Regional Coordinator
208-433-8652
mlanza@velocitus.net

From : Michael Stoger
Sent : Tuesday, May 11, 2004 9:58 AM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : climbing

I am bolting the climbs on the Easter Island. The climbs will be mixed with gear and bolts. I also climbed a new line right of R.C crack. It is called 318I, 4 bolts protect a roof and a overhanging ar�te. The difficulties are about 5.13a. I also installed an anchor for the other climbs.

On another note I would like you to post this on your web site. I was reading the Austrian climbing news this morning and noticed Alex Huber free soloing the climb Kommunist 5.14a at Schleier Wasserfall Austria. The climb is 70 feet in length and the landing zone does not allow for a fall. This is another example of his extraordinary skill and talent.

From : Michael Lanza <mlanza@velocitus.net>
Sent : Friday, April 30, 2004 7:40 AM
To : <mail@boiseclimbers.org>
Subject : Black Cliffs trail work volunteers needed

We wrote to you earlier this spring about a Boise Climbers Alliance proposal to conduct significant and much-needed improvements to badly deteriorating trails at the Black Cliffs. Many of you responded then in support of the project and volunteering to help out. We're pleased to announce that the BCA has secured major grant funding from The Access Fund and The American Alpine Club for this work. Now we need volunteer muscle power to get the work done.

We've scheduled two work dates: Saturday, May 22, and Sunday, May 23, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. both days. We're breaking each day into half-day work shifts (8-noon and 1-5pm) for organizational purposes, and asking people to volunteer for a minimum of a half-day shift so that we're not breaking up work teams mid-shift. But we're honestly hoping that folks will show up for a full day or both days, as much time you can give. There's a fair bit of work to be done, and we need a good number of bodies out there to accomplish it. If you know other climbers who would help and may not have received this notice, please forward it to them.

Briefly, the project will include work on trails accessing the Short, Mid and Tall Cliffs, Populace Wall, Car Body Canyon, and Scary Canyon-Wailing Wall area. We will assign volunteers to work teams based on what each person is willing and capable of doing physically. Not all of the work will involve heavy lifting or heavy tools. We'll have BCA work team leaders prepared to undertake each separate project with a group of volunteers. We'll provide more details later to all volunteers responding to this notice about tools, specific tasks, etc. If you volunteer and happen to have some trail-building experience, please let us know.

Separately, we're also contacting contractors regarding work that will require professionals with heavy machinery, including reconstructing the parking lot at Car Body Canyon (washed out last September), and installing a gate to prevent vehicle access to the Short Cliffs (which the land management agency, the Bureau of Reclamation, has required as a condition of this trail project, and is needed to remedy bad erosion there). This obviously isn't work that could be done by random volunteers. Anyone who has, or knows of, professionals who might donate labor or materials for this work, please contact Mike or Brian (see below). We're also hoping to eventually install informational kiosks on a few primary trails accessing the Black Cliffs.

If you climb there, or just want to volunteer to help out, please contact Mike Lanza, BCA President, at 433-8652, mlanza@velocitus.net, or our trail project coordinator, Brian Fedigan, at BFdgn@aol.com. See www.boiseclimbers.org for more information.

From : Michael Lanza <mlanza@velocitus.net>
Sent : Friday, April 30, 2004 6:41 AM
To : <mail@boiseclimbers.org>
Subject : Black Cliffs raptor closures

April 30, 2004 Hello Boise Climbers Alliance members, The Boise Climbers Alliance, working with Idaho Department of Fish and Game, has removed buffer zone signs from all but three climbing areas at the Black Cliffs, freeing all areas but those three (see below) to climbing. There is raptor nesting activity this year at two sites: a golden eagle nest to the right of the Wailing Wall, and a prairie falcon nest at Nixon Head. For now, those areas, as well as Scary Canyon (immediately left of Wailing Wall), remain under voluntary closure to protect the nesting raptors. We are communicating with the Department of Fish and Game about when we can open up Scary Canyon again and will notify everyone on this email list, and remove the buffer zone signs, when that occurs. We're awaiting answers from IDFG about the appropriate buffer zone distance from the nest to the right of the Wailing Wall. Areas not affected (and open to climbing) include: Car Body Canyon (West and East), the Short, Mid, and Tall Cliffs, The Fringe, Populace Wall, Highway Face, and Face Canyon. The BCA works with the Department of Fish and Game every winter and spring, identifying where golden eagles and prairie falcons-two species protected under the federal Migratory Bird Treaty Act-have established nests for the season. Buffer zone signs indicating areas under voluntary closure from climbing go up in February, at the start of the nesting season, in places where raptors have historically nested. Then we wait and see whether any nesting occurs through February and March. In any areas where nests are not established by April, those signs come down then. Where nests are established-as, this year, at Nixon Head and Wailing Wall-buffer zone signs remain up until the end of the nesting season, which is the end of June. The BCA asks that climbers voluntarily avoid routes in the vicinity of the buffer-zone signs while those signs remain up. There are also signs at Black Cliffs trailheads explaining the raptor-protection plan. The BCA appreciates the continued cooperation of the majority of climbers using the Black Cliffs. We hope that our actions will not only help encourage future nesting there by golden eagles and prairie falcons, but will head off possible attempts by land managers to curtail climbing at the Black Cliffs.

From : Brian Fedigan
Sent : Tuesday, April 20, 2004 7:57 PM
To : Boise Climbers
Subject : Raptor closures

I talked with Bruce Haak and have removed the buffer zone signs at the back of Car Body and Highway Face. The Nixon Head and Scary Canyon should remained closed. I am meeting with Bruce this week to determine if the nest is far enough from Scary to open it, but for now it is closed to climbing.

From : Brian Fedigan
Sent : Tuesday, April 20, 2004 7:52 PM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : Openings of Highway Face/Car Body

You can let everyone know that the back of Car Body and Highway Face itself is OPEN to climbing. Bruce Haak and the Fish and Game would like to see the Nixon Head stay closed till June. I discussed Scary Canyon with Bruce. He told me that he would like to check the proximity of the climbs to the nest. I am supposed to meet him within the next week to determine the length of climbing closures at Scary. For now ALL CLIMBS at Scary should remain closed. Thanks everyone for respecting these closures, without responsible climbers the cliffs would close to climbing. Work on the trails at the Black Cliffs begins on May 22nd.

From: "Haak,Bruce"
To: "Brian Fedigan"
Subject: RE: BUFFER ZONE SIGNS
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 16:56:33 -0600

I appreciate the update and information. I'm not sure about the distance one should be from an active eagle nest to avoid disturbance. That depends to a large degree on the behavior of the adults. If you can maintain the 300 yd. buffer, and most of the climbing action is out of sight of the nest, things should go smoothly. As for re-opening the routes, we should wait until the young are fledged and flying well, probably in early July. Let me know if I need to meet up with you in the near future for a more intensive look at the site.

From : Brian Fedigan
Sent : Monday, April 12, 2004 1:44 PM
Subject : Golden Eagles nest site

Hello everyone, I just got off the phone with Mark Collie who has been watching the Golden Eagle Nest site. The location of the site appears to be the lower site just to the east of wailing wail. He told me it was close to where the powerlines come down out of the canyon, so it might be in scary canyon itself. He said right now she is super sensitive to people and will be protective of her nest. The young should hatch around Mid-March and she will not be as concerned with people close by. Anyway, he believes climbers should stay out of the area till late April. Just to be safe I think we should keep both Scary and wailing wall closed. I am going to try and pull the other signs sometime this week (maybe Thursday)

From: Brian Fedigan
Sent: Friday, April 9, 2004 1:35 PM
Subject: NESTING GOLDEN EAGLES

Hello everyone, I just got off the phone with Bruce Haak. He informed me that we have a pair of golden eagles nesting in the wailing wall area. They DO have eggs incubating and we need to stress that climbers stay out of the area. If possible Sandy and Jon can you post this information on your web sites. It appears the area on the North Facing side does have a pair of prairie falcons and should also remained closed. I believe the other areas can eventually be opened to climbing. Bruce gave me a name of a gentleman Mark Collie and said he knows the exact location of the nest. I called and left a message to get in touch with me. I think we should leave Scary Canyon area signs alone for now, but I think that Highway Face is probably fine to remove the signs. I know we want to remove everything at once, but just a suggestion

From : michael stoger
Sent : Tuesday, March 30, 2004 7:16 AM
To : Sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : RE: table rock

I was at the mid cliffs yesterday and climbed a couple of projects. First I climbed your Rainbow Warrior direct, about 5.12b/c. Next I climbed my project that I bolted last year next to Mean Chunk of Candy. I did not take the direct line, which is still up to be done at V10 or so. Instead I followed the undercling feature a bit to the left to a big hold and climbed back right on nice pockets to the top. All bolts are good in line and easy clips. It is somewhere 5.12 and A Mean Chunk of Candy Ass would fit fine for a name.

From : michael stoger
Sent : Sunday, March 28, 2004 7:15 AM
To : "sandy epeldi" <sandy@boiseclimbs.com>
Subject : Power Ranger

at the age of sit down starts you can do interesting things out there. Last week I climbed a sit down start to my old route Power Ranger up on Table rock. Start on 2 small crimpers, sitting down, directly below the start of Crank Cream. Throw to a sloper and climb the drilled pockets until you can traverse into Power Ranger. This adds 8 moves to Power Ranger and maybe is 5.12+. Needles to say the same sit start will work for Crank Cream.

From : Mark Hackney <abundantlife_98@yahoo.com>
Sent : Tuesday, March 16, 2004 7:30 PM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : post: CLIMBING HIMALAYA

I am looking for climbing partner(s) who would like to climb in the Indian Himalayas - 6,316 meters (20,720'), nothing very technical but snow-climbing experience would be helpful. My partner dropped out. I am planning to go mid April very economically with costs about $2700. In light of the new and upgraded travel warnings by the State Dept. for Nepal and Pakistan some of you who were planning to go there might want to consider the Indian Himalayas. N See my website at www.angelfire.com/pro/myclimb/index.html

From : Brian Fedigan
Sent : Monday, March 8, 2004 9:38 PM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : Chipping at Table Rock

Hey Sandy,
I was up at the traverse wall the other day and noticed that a section of the traverse had a freshly chipped section. I realize this may not be a climber, but people need to realize because there was chipping in the past at Table Rock does not mean it is acceptable now. People should know that by chipping holds they are ruining current routes and/or changing the rating of the route. Climbers need to be aware of this activity, even it isn't a climber we will probably get blamed for it because of all the climbing activity in the area. I also noticed a bunch of bushes were removed from the back of the bouldering cave. This is high impact and a lot of the sections of our favorite climbing area are on private land (including the traverse wall). If the land owners see this destruction and lack of responsibility by people they may close the area . I hope people grow up and realize their stupid decisions will affect us all.

From : Brad Kinney
Sent : Monday, March 8, 2004 7:39 AM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : lost and found

From : ron checketts
Sent : Thursday, March 4, 2004 6:17 PM
To : <sandy@boiseclimbs.com>
Subject : new route

I put up A new route on Sunday in face canyon. It start's behind the bush about ten feet to the right of max v. It's a thin crack to anchors, I'm calling it bushwhacking cracker 5.10+. FA Adam Chitwood

From : Michael Stoger
Sent : Tuesday, March 2, 2004 9:02 AM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : another route in scary canyon

Sean and I installed a new line in-between blue Monday and Mind Killer yesterday. Starting out, with a quite difficult, boulder start (bolt) passing very difficult moves along the thin seam (piton) and climbing directly into the large roof of Bird shit man. I installed one bolt and one piton but was only able to TR the line due to the lack of protection. I am not sure if I will bolt the entire line or try to lead it on the minimal gear placements available. The name is "Crash Test" climbing it on TR is minimum 5.12+. Climbing it on lead will be a different story (to be continued). Either way the route is one of the most difficult outings on that side of the black cliffs.

From : ron checketts
Sent : Friday, February 27, 2004 5:38 PM
To : sandy
Subject : new route

I put up a new climb at face canyon the other day, it's the thin crack to the left of buttface. climb through the bush and merges with buttface near the top. Stay off the detached column to make the climb more fun. I'm calling it vertical gardening 5.9+. you only need small gear. F.A. Adam Chitwood

From : <Matheseugene@aol.com>
Sent : Wednesday, February 25, 2004 1:40 AM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : (no subject)

From : Michael Stoger
Sent : Tuesday, February 10, 2004 10:19 AM
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : new route

Sean and I climbed a new route at Scary Canyon on Monday Feb. 9th. I named it "Blue Monday" and it tackles the unclimbed zone between Flight 1713 and Mind Killer.

Start on the blank looking roof (piton) and climb to a small roof just below the main roof. This section takes small stoppers and one #4 and #2 TCU. A difficult move past the small roof leads to a left traverse in the main roof section (like Odyssey. Climb over the roof next to flight 1713 and join it at the last 2 bolts to the top.

It is a long and demanding pitch that is protected pretty good. The climbing is very fun and sustained. As for the rating, I am not sure, 5.11+ or 5.12 something. Some of the gear needs to be placed form strenuous positions. 2 pitons are left in the route.

From: "David Daycock"
To: Subject: Ice Climbing Question
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 11:20:30 -0700

I am new to the area and was told that you are the person to go to for information on ice climbing in the area. I read your web site and saw a similar question posted, but saw no response regarding local water ice to be climbed. I have driven up to Garden Valley on a tip and found a little ice, but nothing substantial. I don't think it has gotten cold enough there to freeze anything significant. Maybe I was just looking at the wrong place. Do you have any more information? I heard about places in Twin Falls, but have no idea where to start looking? Any info you have would be greatly appreciated.

David,

I'm not an ice climber myself so I don't know all the places to go. The most popular place seems to be the Snake River Canyon at Twin Falls--right at the bridge as you enter town. I heard through the grapevine that the conditions were good about two weeks ago. Another popular sight closer to Boise is the Jump Creek Canyon waterfall near Marsing (there are directions to this area in the back of my Boise Climbs book). The small Basalt canyons off of Hwy-21 at Grimes Creek and Robie Creek might also be worth checking out. The best person to ask about local ice climbing would probably be Doug Colwell. To contact him go to www.boiseclimbers.org.

From : cathy chitwood
To : <sandy@boiseclimbs.com>
Subject : new routes at the tall cliffs
Date : Sat, 22 Nov 2003 19:22:33 -0800

The new bolted route at the tall cliff's ( grandpa's route ) is to the right of thanks for the mammaries. The intended line is direct and stay off the detatched column. this route is probably 5.10d. The other new route (your girl friend ) is the first crack to the left of number eight left there is one bolt near the top . There is two way's to finish this route the easier is follow the crack over the top to the hangers which is 5.10?, or from the bolt climb the face this probably push's the grade to 5.11?Both route were put up by Adam Chitwood and Chris Holmes.

From : michael stoger
To : "sandy epeldi" <sandy@boiseclimbs.com>
Subject : new route
Date : Sun, 26 Oct 2003 05:38:44 -0800

Sandy,
I climbed a new pitch in Scary Canyon yesterday. It starts on Mind Killer and climbs it to the 5th bolt. Clip a very long runner at the fifth bolt and traverse the big roof to the left. Follow the roof traverse, good pro with mid size cams, until you reach the bolt of flight 1713. Continue up and left into the Sting. Finish on the Sting or Sting Variation. Bring lots of long runners to eliminate most of the rope drag. This pitch is for sure one of the most demanding ones at the cliffs. It is also possible to finish on Flight 1713 or on Beef Curtain. It is the "Odyssey" and if you finish the climb on the Sting or Sting variation it goes at 5.13. If you finish on Flight 1713 or Beef Curtain it's 5.12.

From : Greg Parker
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : New route on Slick Rock?
Date : Tue, 14 Oct 2003 21:30:33 -0600

Sandy,
We were up in McCall a couple of weeks ago climbing Slick rock and saw a new bolted route that parallels the trad route about 20-50 feet to the right. We didn't really notice the bolts until the start of the 4th pitch, but it is quite obvious once you find the bolt line. Looks like they did a good job with 3/8 ss bolts and metolius hangers, with good belay stations too. We climbed about 1/2 a pitch of the route (we were more interested in the trad climb--it's too much fun) but it seems to be about 5.7-5.8 face climbing with bolts about every 10-15 feet (whoever put it up spent a small fortune on bolts and drilling time). Just wondering if you'd heard about this route and the originators?

Does anyone out there have the scoop about this route? I don't know anything about it.
Sandy

From : michael stoger
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : new climb
Date : Thu, 09 Oct 2003 08:09:29 -0700

Just finished a new climb which is the longest climb at the black cliffs (Nixon Head). The new line climbs Watergate (12c or 12d/13a depending on travel) and joins Resignation via 4 new bolts. 60 meter rope needed, tie a knot at the end you will use every inch of the rope. The name is "You are Terminated" and it is, depending on your line of travel 12+ or 13a.

From : Mary DeWalt
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : bravo
Date : Fri, 19 Sep 2003 17:09:23 -0600

sandy,
bravo! well done on the new guidebook! it's really quite impressive. I rushed out and bought it last weekend (I got so tired of having to cross reference the old guide, the supplement, and the computer printout) and perused it thoroughly. the amount of work you've put into it really shows, and you should be proud of the result, especially the stellar narrative on Boise's climbing history and the fine job of adjusting some of the climbs' ratings. congratulations!

From : Brian Fedigan
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : Response to new anchors
Date : Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:04:08 EDT

Sandy, I am glad people are interested in replacing anchors at the cliffs on routes which are heavily used. However, I do not believe that industrial strength biners are a great idea. Anyone who has climbed enough places knows the intense visual impact of such large anchors. The carabiners after a year or so tend to rust or get dirty enough that the gates sometimes stay open or will not open at all. This may be a problem for inexperienced climbers. The anchors which are currently installed may need to be replaced due to wear, but should not be replaced because of convenience. The different anchors installed also help people identify the different climbs. People should not under any circumstances modify a climb unless they get the okay from the first ascent party. Thanks, Brian Fedigan

From : LAUGHLIN, JOHN
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : Letters & Anchors...
Date : Wed, 10 Sep 2003 19:31:16 -0400

In response to Andy Poorman's letter about anchor standards: While I think that anchors such as he describes are generally a good thing, an additional factor to consider is the amount of top-roping by novice climbers which is done at the cliffs relative to many other climbing areas. Many of these climbers barely know what they are doing to begin with and don't need anything else working against them. As you say, the easier it goes in, the easier it comes out.

I think if such a system were to be tried at the cliffs, a better place to start would be the excellent, but less frequently visited climbs at Scary Canyon or Face Canyon. Safety and visual impact should supercede all other considerations however. The cliffs are already a pretty convenient place to climb due to the ubiquitous fixed anchors, some merely a meter or two apart.

From : michael stoger
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Date : Tue, 26 Aug 2003 11:44:06 -0700

the idea started in 2002. I climbed up to the roof but did not go on due to the lack of protection.

August 10.03. Mike Teschner and I finished the first pitch and I climbed it at 5.13b. A 5.11+ start protected with 3 knife blades leads to a crux roof, one bolt and a 5.13 crux. After the roof one piton protects a run out thin 5.11 face to the anchor.

August 16.03. Mike Teschner and I climb the second pitch. I spent 5 hours leading the pitch ground up. Using no hooks, placing protection in the blank wall only when I was able to place a small knife blade in micro seems, drill a bolt and remove the knife blade. This pitch is outstanding, a thin face at solid 5.11 to a steep section with pockets. Traverse left at 5.11+ to a smooth dihedral. Climb the dihedral (5.11) at the end and left to the belay. This pitch has 4 bolts and 2 pitons. 5.11+ needs to be climbed between protection.

The third bitch left me retreating after 30 feet, the rock was too loose and the climbing to unpleasant. The line went straight up from the belay just right of a huge roof. I repelled of a fixed piton.

August 17.03. Mike Teschner and I climbed the first 2 pitches. I started out on the third pitch climbed the twin cracks and when I hit the dirty section I hand drilled a bolt out left in a totally blank looking face 3 feet above the gigantic roof. The traverse across the face is very scary at 5.12a, a fall from the crux is not a good idea. I reached a rounded crack und climbed it to a hand traverse leading out to a super exposed belay. One hand drilled bolt and a knife blade + some pro for an anchor.

Pitch 4 follows the very steep razor sharp ar�te at 5.11b until a fixed knife blade marks a right traverse to the top of the pillar. These two pitches are outstanding, super exposed. Pitch 5 is the last pitch of the North East Face.

We drilled 9 bolts ( 3 of them at anchors), without using hooks and placed 7 pitons in the route. The route is very steep and committing at parts. Solid climbing of the grades is required for all pitches.

From: Poorman Andrew D Capt 391 FS/DOFD
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 13:39:58 -0600

I just got back from Owen's River Gorge in California and was very Impressed with the anchor standard there. It is a three anchor system; the two outer anchors are a bolt to single threaded chain link to an industrial strength hook with steel gate (in other words - an ugly carabiner but very strong and heavy) and the middle anchor is a set of chains to a threaded link level with the two outer hooks. Bottom line is that you can run the rope through at the top very quickly and without having to untie. Many of the climbs here could be modded without having to drill if just the hooks were used without the center chain - or just one hole drilled to install the center chain. I would like to mod some of the easier and heavily climbed routes such as the mid cliffs to this system - however I don't want to violate the local standard or the intent of the route's owners. Can I do this without stepping on toes - possibly just adding the industrial hooks to existing chains or should I contact the route's creator for individual guidance?

    The Owens system is very user-friendly. Many of the climbs at Massacre are set up in a similar way. Would it cause controversy here? I don't know. I'm sure many people would enjoy the convenience. In order to avoid potential conflict, I would recommend asking the 1st ascent parties.
    My concerns would be visual impact and safety. I've been talking with some concerned individuals who are very upset about how visually apparent our bolts and anchors have become in recent years. I think we're at a point in time where it is very important to make our hardware as close to invisible as possible. As far as safety, the easier the rope goes in the easier it comes out. These are just some things to consider.
    I am glad to hear there is some interest in anchor maintenance. There are certainly some out there that are overdue for replacement.

From : Steve Brown
To : "Sandy" <sandy@boiseclimbs.com>
Subject : ahsgrove cement plant
Date : Wed, 13 Aug 2003 20:08:33 -0700

I was reading your letters and noticed that Mike made it to the crag at "Ashgrove", The climbing is on steep, chossy limestone, and is as he said a blast to climb on. Kevin Hibbert and I spent a couple weeks in the spring of 2002 setting the routes, the grades are as follows, from left to right 11d, 11a, 12a/b, 11c, 12a/b to the second anchors, 12d also to the second anchors, uncleaned project, 10d, 10a there is a bit more route potential and we haven't finished yet, the routes are pretty clean but due to the nature of the stone they are subject to change, we encourage everyone who enjoys climbing steep stone with lots of huge jugs to give a go. the directions are take the cement plant exit, park at the silver railroad building, make the mad dash across the freeway {the crux} head up the draw to the right of the large rock band that comes down to the freeway, there's a trail, follow it up the draw about 150 yards, then it cuts back left across the hillside for another 100 yards, and moves into a gully that's where the climbs are located, its a obvious steep wall with a shallow cave on the left side, there is a sm. tree in the entrance of the gully .be warned these routes are way too fun.

From : michael stoger
To : "SANDY EPELDI"
Subject : new climbs
Date : Mon, 4 Aug 2003 15:56:25 -0700

1. Peach Boulder. Shelf Traverse 5.13b. Start on The Shelf and traverse left until you finish on the Mastermind top out.

2. Rotten Peaches V6. Sit start just right of peaches. Slap up the overhand, lock of to a sloper, match and reach the dirty top ledge, end.

3. Jughandle Mountain Lower North Face (McCall) 5.11, 3 pitches. Sean and I put it up last weekend.

From : Pat Merrill
To : <sandy@boiseclimbs.com>
Subject : Dierkes
Date : Sun, 3 Aug 2003 14:50:19 -0600

In response to Mike's response about the ratings on the new 13's at Dierkes, I have to disagree somewhat. I believe that Burly Gurl should be 12d/13a not 12c/d. Bonnie Bionic should be 13a not 12b and Bedazzled should be 12c/d not 12a/b. Thanks

From : "Kevin O'Brien" <kevin@reallifecommunity.com>
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : Bulletin board
Date : Fri, 23 Jan 1970 17:56:49 -0700

Found: La Sportiva Mythos shoes at Carbody Canyon July 24, 2003. Call Kevin to I.D. (208) 461-4612. Also lost wedding ring at Carbody Canyon about a month ago. If you found it, plz call Kevin. Thanks!

Sandy, we found these shoes last night but not until the group that obviously left them had left. I hope we can find the owner, they're brand new, probably saw their first climbing yesterday.

From : "Mary DeWalt" <dewalt@cableone.net>
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : found sunglasses
Date : Mon, 14 Jul 2003 13:07:51 -0600

I found a pair of sunglasses at the populace wall this morning (monday july 14th), and they look really expensive. If anyone wants to contact me regarding them, my e-mail address is: dewalt@cableone.net.

From : michael stoger
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : changes
Date : Mon, 23 Jun 2003 08:38:13 -0600

Remember we talked about the new 5.13's at Dierkies Lake. I went out there yesterday to go and climb them. I onsighted Burly Girl 5.13b and Bonnie Bionic 5.13a/b the 3rd one I already onsighted this spring 5.12d/13a. As we already knew, here are what I think the actual ratings for these climbs should be: burly girl 5.12c/d. Bonnie Bionic 5.12b and the third (no name) 5.12a/b. Just FYI, since I remember that we where talking about that.

From : "michael stoger" <tmstoger@msn.com>
To : Sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : Re:
Date : Thu, 12 Jun 2003 15:15:41 -0600

I went out to the new place close to burnt river, up by the cement factory. There are 10 climbs there. I did all the hard ones and nothing was harder than 12+, really fun climbing.

From : Tim Schandorff
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : caution tape on chains
Date : Sun, 11 May 2003 19:59:22 -0600

While setting up a top rope in Car Body Canyon about a week ago I noticed caution tape on the Watts UP! chains. It was also on a different route about 20 feet north. Is this part of the BCA's raptor protection project or is there some other reason for it? Also is there a new update to Boise Climbs in the near future. thanks for the info and all the work that you have put into the boise climbing community. Tim Schandorff

A new edition of Boise Climbs is in the works. It should be available at the end of August.

From : C D <chuckd278@yahoo.com>
To : sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : Bulletin Board Message
Date : Tue, 22 Apr 2003 22:39:50 -0700 (PDT)

Help I live in Grangeville!!! After moving to Grangeville, Idaho from Oklahoma City I find myself with no partners to climb with. I have looked all over Grangeville and no luck finding partners. So here is my plea. I am looking for people to climb with at the South Fork of the Clearwater, Salmon, and Riggins. If you are a beginner I will teach you. I will also give you all gear to use minus shoes if you can be a regular partner. I'm just a solid 5.9/5.10 climber with a full rack of gear not getting used. My contact information is listed below.

Chuck Dillon
113 E. South 2nd St.
Grangeville, Id 83530
208-983-3936
chuckd278@yahoo.com

From : michael stoger
To : boiseclimbs@msn.com, sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject : new route
Date : Mon, 21 Apr 2003 10:46:36 -0600

I went and bolted the overhang left of mean chunk of candy. It turns out that the climb is pretty stiff. Start on mean chunk of candy, stroll up to the overhang. It's a tuff clip to protect the moves into the undercling. Another difficult clip protects the crux featuring a very hard boulder problem on micro pockets and edges to some difficult and a bit run out moves to the top.

I was not able to do 2 of the moves at all. The climb is an open project, the guy or girl who can climb the 2 moves can name the route.

I was wondering if you would consider posting a link for me on you letters page in which I am selling my personal climbing rack. If not would you just mention around I am selling a big fat climbing rack.

This is not a store and I am not a business. I am just a local climber trying to sell my climbing rack to a worthy climber. I would like to see this stuff put to use by someone. You may verify who I am through a mutual climbing partner Brian Fetigan. Thanks

Do you know if theres a route up the north side of stack rock? Its a rock about a two mile hike west of bogus road, the pull out is a ways after the treeline, but before bogus basin. A buddy of mine said there were some anchors up there, and i didn't see anything in your book. Also I know of some fairly easy bouldering cliffs, that are short, but fun. They're against the canal below Indain lakes golf course. About a half mile, give or take, of basalt that ranges from 8-12 feet. If you know anything about stack rock I'd appreciate it. And your book has been a lot of help. Thanks.

Jared,
Stack Rock has a long history of climbing and there are a number of routes. There is some moderate climbing on the north side but the most interesting routes ascend the south side roofs. Unfortunately, Stack Rock is on private land and it is clearly posted. Thanks for the Indian Lakes tip.

Sandy, here are a couple of pictures (Photos coming soon) from my September 2002 "work" trip to Germany/Austria. The route my best buddy Didi Sinnhuber and I are climbing is called "Memory" 5.13a, over 12 pitches. The location is the mountain range of the "Wilder Kaiser", Austria. The best alpine climbing in the world, located in the most beautiful country in the world. Several hundred 2000 foot routes on perfect limestone and only a 25 Minute drive from my old home.

From: George H Ortiz
To: Sandy
Subject: Idaho Ice Climbing
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003

I have just moved to Boise and am trying to gather information on ice climbing in the area. I have heard of place near Twin Falls, but do not have any directions on how to get there. I have researched some info on Sawtooth alpine ice and a climbing ranger at City of Rocks says there is some marginal flows there. Some people have mentioned that they heard of possibilities of local ice, but didn't have any firm info on where, when, or conditions. I am currently commuting to the Salt Lake area for my fix. Montana is another option but quite a drive. Do you know of any areas within Idaho that contain climbable water ice or know of anyone who does? I am also trying to gather partners that are interested in ice climbing, so if you could give me any contacts I would appreciate it.

I have climbed a problem in the big cave to the right of the Iron Man traverse. It is the steepest climb in Boise. The route starts as a sit down start half way into the cave at a marked black undercling close to a pointed rock in the ground. Climb the horizontal roof towards daylight. After 20 moves the climb finishes on the left outside wall of the cave.

I think I will give the climb 5.13A rating since it is so long. I named it S.D.H (smelly,dark,hole).

Sandy, Hi there. Just wondering if you or anyone you know has a more updated topo for the climbs in Box Canyon by Howe. I have a copied version from the original topo that was put out around '99-'00 but I know that some climbs have been removed and some added. Any beta would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Date: Friday, October 25, 2002
From: Peter Webb
To: Sandy
Subject: Found: Gear at Black Cliffs

Found some climbing gear at the Short Cliffs on October 24, 2002.
Readers can e-mail me to identify: pjtwebb@mindspring.com.

Sandy Have you considered making a Hells Canyon rock climbing guide? I know you were kind of shut down on that before by a few individuals. As a whole, I think it is apparent that the area locals (western Idaho) would be very excited to get a little more information on the area. What about the people who spend all the time and effort developing routes. I don't know of many people who put routes up that want them to be climbed a few times and forgotten. Imagine how unorganized or undocumented many great areas would be without a guidebook. As for being outdated, there will always be new routes. That is why new revisions of guidebooks must be printed. I am sure that I am not alone in offering you what support I can to develop a guidebook. Thanks Mike Cook

I cleaned up and lead a new crack or at least one that is not on your website or in your book. It is at the Populace cliffs about 8 feet to the right of little nest. It follows the crack all the way to the top and then steps over to little nest's anchors. If this is an FA I'm calling it rotten nest (if so FA John Odle and Tim Randall). It goes about 5.7+. I am thinking about putting up some anchors but can use little nests anchors for now.

Date: Sunday, September 08, 2002
From: Michael May
To: Sandy
Subject: Update on routes at the Skunk Cave

The route to the left of mac-daddy is 5.12B. The route all the way to the left is 5.10C

Do you ever update your site? The same stuff has been on there forever. It's a great site with good info but it's old. Thanks

I am a Riggins local looking for people to climb I am in the 5-12+ range but would be happy to climb with anyone any time till the end of the summer: GeorgeNuckols@hotmail.com or (208) 628-3503 Cheers, George

Sandy,

I put up a new 3 pitch line up Jughandle Mountain, this time by myself. It is called dream catcher.

1st pitch 5.6 very good granite climb up to the ramp. Or 4th class the ramp to skip the pitch.

2nd pitch 5.12d/13a climb the very steep thin crack system, very committing, 2 pins left behind.

3rd pitch 5.10d a steep corner to a nice arete.

Mike

MY NAME IS MIKE MAY AND I'M A LOCAL CLIMBER DOWN HERE IN TWIN FALLS. I HAVE SOME INFO ON SOME NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT, AND THOUGHT YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW. WE HAVE 6 NEW ROUTES RANGING FROM 5.9 TO 5.13B. THE FIRST 3 ROUTES ARE IN THE ALCOVE (FROM L TO R). 1ST IS BONNIE BIONIC IT STARTS BETWEEN LOSER AND POWER LUNCH AND GOES AT 5.13A. THE 2ND IS BURLEY GIRL IT BREAKS
OFF OF BURLEY MAN AT THE 4TH BOLT AND GOES LEFT AT 5.13B. THE 3RD ROUTE HAS NO NAME BUT STARTS ON SHE-DEVIL AND BREAKS RIGHT AT THE 3RD BOLT, IT GOES AT 5.12D-13A. THE NEXT ROUTE IS AT THE HIDDEN CLIFF A NEW 5.9 ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE WALL. THE SKUNK CAVE HAS 2
NEW ROUTES, THE 1ST ON STARTS JUST TO THE LEFT OF MAC DADDY AND SHARES THE SAME ANCHOR, THIS ROUTE SHOULD GO AT ABOUT THE SAME GRADE AS MAC DADDY (5.11D) OR JUST A LITTLE EASIER. THE 2ND ROUTE IS THE FARTHEST LEFT ROUTE, AND LOOKS LIKE IT SHOULD BE IN THE 5.10 RANGE. I JUST THOUGHT YOU WOULD LIKE TO KNOW.

Sandy,
Jeff and I put up another route on Jughandle mountains north/ east face. This route is going up the right side of the great gray granite face on the left side of the wall. This line is more difficult than the first and I had to use two pitons to protect climbing up to 5.10d. The route doe's not follow a crack system but covers a lot of face climbing with some delicate protection. As the first line this one was climbed ground up with no inspection and clean (except for 2 pitons).

1. pitch (5.7) start on a small snow flied and a obvious boulder. Climb a white granite slab to a ledge and build an anchor under a small overhang.
2. pitch (5.10) climb a vertical crack and face line with one fixed piton protecting a traverse out to a ledge. This would a good belay spot. I opted to climb to the next ledge (30 feet of 5.9) but unprotected. A anchor can be set up with pitons.
3. pitch (5.10d) delicate face climbing (piton) leads to a system of technical face climbing broken up be ledges to a ledge.
4. pitch (5.10) from the belay ledge several option lead to the summit. I opted for the most difficult looking line following a nice finger crack. Traversing left to a small overhang and past that on big flakes to the summit.

It is better to do the climb in 5 pitches. The rock quality is as for the first line outstanding and the climbing is fun and challenging.

The wall offers a ton more lines at any difficulty. I am trying to climb all the lines clean with the least use of pitons as possible and no bolts at all. Route finding can be tuff since there is no fixed protection. You have to trust your instincts and just climb.

Close to McCall Jeff Smith and I climbed the, as fare as I know, unclimbed north east face of jug handle mountain. We climbed a line up the center of the wall ground up, protected only by gear. 4 long 50 - 55 meter pitches at 5.10. The rock is very good granite and I will return to put more clean gear lines through the 600 foot face.

From: Mike Cook
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 8:53 AM
To:
Subject: Access to the dark side

Sandy
I was wondering how people have been accessing the dark side of the black cliffs. The roads that approach from the top have been fenced off. There is still one road that will get you pretty close to the cliffs before you are cut off by the fence. I was kind of hoping you would have some insight on this.
Thanks, Mike Cook

Approach the Dark Side via the Rodeo Flips approach as described in "More Boise Climbs".
Sandy

Hey Sandy - The problems that we have been kinda doing that are different than the book are... "Evil Ivy" - start behind bush around corner moving down and left under "Psycho Braille". After rest at crack, use only the last two crimps at head height. Keep moving left another 20 feet or so to the next large vertical crack for the finish. The whole traverse stays as low as possible. It is definitaly a sweet problem going around mid 5.11. The next one is "That Crimpy Ass Traverse" - it is "The Cutting Edge Traverse" done backward, starting on the obvious block on the ground. It begins with the two or three horizontal chest high crimps only then moving left staying low the whole way. The finish is at the next big vertical crack. I'd say hard 5.11. Next: I don't know whose it is but there's "Creepy Dyno" to the right of "Sharp Arete" on the big block at Big Times Area. Now over to the Arena with Table Rock. What's called "Heel Hook" I call my version "Sweaty Peach". Begin with a sit down start as close to the arete as possible and move up then over into the beginings of "heel hook" and finish. I'd say easy 5.11 - you'll have to try it and decide if its any easier or harder. Last of what I can think of right now is "Nice Peace". You know all about this one, I believe, so we'll discuss this at hard eleven.
Great Problem!!! Anyway that's all I've got for right now. If I've missed anything I'll let you know when it comes to me.

Sandy,
Sus and I were bouldering last night at Table Rock and he set a couple of new problems that you may want to post on the bulletin board of your site.
They are both on the small boulder named "The Mantle" in front of the Fortress. The first is on the right side ar�te. From a sit-down start, there is a notch for a right foot. Smear the left. Pull off of the ar�te with one or two hands and pop to the top: mantle. It's called "Hop on Pop". V0
The other is a sit-down start also. It starts on the left side ar�te. Undercling right hand, left on crimp. Feet under the rock (figure it out). Stand up, kneebar under shelf. Pop left hand up twice, then right to top sloper. Match on sloper traverse with hands to right, toe in on face notch. Mantle as in finish of Hop on Pop. It's called "Great Day for Up". V4
There is no word of these routes in previous guides, right? Have you ever heard anything different?
Thanks tons Sandy
Jamey

I have noticed even more chipped foot holds up on table rock. It seems as almost every problem that would require a climber to use his feet has been modified. Maybe the guy can't afford climbing shoes!! he can have some of mine. What are we going to do about this, I hate to see all problems eventually being destroyed.

Sandy,

I was up at Big Times today and found a new "old" bouldering block. It is located just at the end of Big Times facing Boise. It does not look like much from the trail but the side facing Boise is pretty cool. The rock is that dark red sandstone and is very solid. I put up 3 problems today: a traverse from left to right, low sit down start (V6). A problem up the center of the wall, sit down start and to the top with some good holds, (V7), if you do a true sit start. Another problem that starts to the right of the center line on some obvious holds and joins the center line (V3).

Mike

Sandy,
    I went back put to the "easter island" to do some cleaning. The 5.11a line lost some loose flakes that changed to grade quite a bit, if all it became less difficult and is in the 5.10 range now, it's still fun.
    Just to the left of the 5.13a is a good 5.12. Be aware of rattle snacks over on the dark side, I saw the first one of the season today.
    Sandy I have another word for our hold modifying friend at table rock. I went up to table rock to finish up a day of cleaning and climbing new route also some bouldering up by the traverse facing downtown, (stoger's traverse). As I climbed the last hard moves, (big times traverse), I noticed that my foot was standing very solid on what use to be a bad foot hold. After I looked at the foot hold closely I noticed that this hold had been changed to a much larger size as well.
    Now, most of the classic table rock boulder problems that are somewhat difficult have been tuned down now to fit someone elses ability. I cannot imagine that any climber would do such a thing as modifying holds on an existing climb/boulder problem to suit their ability.
    It is not that hard, man! who ever is doing this. I am an "old" climber and don't climb much any more, but I still run laps on that traverse as a warm down (and you have to make the holds bigger to climb it maybe once!!!, how sad to be you). I have a better solution for you rather than destroying some of Boise's historic problems, I will invite you to climb with me and I will show you the beta. This way you will see how these problems are climbed for real and you won't need to destroy any more problems, this will be a win, win situation. Or I can go up and knock off your modified holds completely and climb the routes without them. I am sure I can but I am sure you can't.

MS

Sean and I went out on Saturday to put up some new black cliff climbs. The place of our activity was the old "Easter island". I decided not to place any bolts on this wall as of now. The potential at this cliff is greater than I remembered it, some lines are outstanding.

We picked the steepest line up the left part of the wall following a very thin crack. I worked on this line on a T.R years ago and could not figure out the crux. Saturday I pre-placed gear and lead the route after several T.R efforts. It went as a 5.13a climb that is really fun. A 5.10 crack leads to a 10 move 5.13 section and back to fun 5.10 climbing. I named the line "Robinson Crusoe's workout crack" or short RC's workout crack.

A fine line with 90 feet in length went up just to the left of it. "Hotu Matuas line", King of the Easter Islands, went as a very fun 5.9 gear lead following a face, a hand traverse into a corner to an overhanging crack.

"The seven Moai" 5.11a, is the outstanding crack line that starts as the 5.13 but cuts out right following an undercling roof traverse into a hands and finger crack above. The line can be protected very nice and is one of the funnest crack climbs at the cliffs.

I will return next weekend with a wire brush and clean off the for the dark side usual lichen. I could not clean too much since I led the routes ground up.

There are about 7 or so more lines that will go clean out there, all of them look very good.

I did not install anchors at the time since a gear anchor can be installed fast and easy. I would like to add bolt anchors at the top. Let me know if I can use your drill to do so!

From: Michael stoger
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2002 7:32PM
To: sandy
Subject: new routes at the cliffs

Sandy,

    Sean and I went out today and put up 3 new routes at the "Easter Island". The wall has outstanding potential and all lines will go clean.
    I lead the very thin steep crack that leads through the most overhanging part with pre-placed gear, it went as a 5.13a route. The climb contains some fun 5.10 to a 10 move 5.13a crux section to more 5.10 climbing.
    The line just to the left of it is a very fun 5.9, 90 foot lead with very good gear placements.
    Starting on the same crack as the 5.13a but following the roof crack out right and up went as a 5.11a gear lead. The crack is one of the most outstanding cracks at the cliffs.
    All climbs have been done clean. I will install a bolt at the crux of the 5.13a since the lead is a bit committing at this point. The lines need some more cleaning, I thing I will get it done next weekend. We used a natural gear anchor on top of the cliff, not sure if I will install bolt anchors. I will let you know about any names as soon as I can think of any.

Mike

From: michael stoger
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 2:59 PM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: new holds

Sandy,

please post this on your web page.

I have noticed several big footholds that have appeared on some of the classic table rock boulder problems. Who ever it is responsible for adding these new rather large footholds
should take some advice: lay off McDonald's and hit the gym. The feeling you will have after succeeding on the true problem will be by far greater than after molding a problem or route down to your level.

Mike,

I was bouldering by the cave. The first new foot hold I have noticed was on the roof crack problem in the cave. For sure one of the most classic problems at table rock. A big foothold has been cut into the rock were a smear used to be the only foothold.

The second and even bigger foothold appeared on the warm up traverses left side. As you know when you start the traverse from left to right following the low line of holds the start used to be tricky and tuff due to small foot holds. Now there is a huge 2-inch foothold carved out of the rock. I am sure you know the traverse I am talking about. When you drive up and scramble down the cliff the first one with all the big fun pockets.

It is sad that people are acting in such a way. Anyway check it out and you will see what I am talking about.

The next new foothold appeared on the extension of the Under the Table traverse. You know we just talked about this problem. At the very end where you have the small edges to hold on to. Again the difficult footwork has been eliminated with the addition of a new foothold.

I am not sure how many other problems are affected but I will go back up there and check it out.

>From: michael stoger
>Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 9:42 AM
>To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com

just a note for climbers out there who climb around table rock. I had a somewhat interesting event happening to me on Monday. As I walked up Table Rock from the warm springs side, following the trail to the top and passing on the trail by the Superman Traverse block. I had just put down my bouldering pad and was getting ready to switch shoes when I heard a sound like a gunshot next to me. My first thought was, someone is firing a gun next to me. A split second later I realized that this was the start of a blasting. As the dynamite went off just over the little hill from the superman block I dove under the superman block in the search for shelter. The next moment rocks of all sizes are flying over my head and I was hoping that the entire hill is not going to fall onto me. After the smoke and dust cleared away I thought that I should not climb the superman traverse today and went on to boulder on the Table Rock boulder.

Anyway, it is a good thing that I have Army training and that I am used to rock fall from countless alpine climbs. This way the event left me pretty much just with shaking my head. Still this is pretty dangerous, those guys are blasting without a warning or a warning signal. I was walking on a public trail.

Mike

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From: Jerry
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 5:20 PM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject:

Hey,
I haven't seen a lot of updates to the web site so I am not sure if you still maintain it, but I have a question. What is the current status of the climbing limitations for protecting the raptors in the black cliffs for this year 2002. Is there one in place at this time. I was wanting to get a early start this year. Thanks.
--
Ciao
Jerry

We just put up the closure signs last week. The Nixon Head, the back of Car Body Canyon, Highway Face, Scary Canyon and the Ironman Traverse are all closed to climbing until further notice. Most of these areas will probably re-open after a few weeks.

Sandy

From: Urban, Scott
To: sandy
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 11:50 AM
Subject: New Route

Hi Sandy,

Just a note to let you know Rob Russell and I finished bolting a new route yesterday. The route moves up the face of the column immediately to the right of our "Jungle Book" chimney (or about 10 feet to the left of Sweet Adene). We've been climbing this for some time now, but have used a top rope after trad leading Jungle Book. It became apparent to us that leading it directly would be more fun, but that bolts were needed to do so. It now has 6 bolts, with the last 2 bolts placed along the last stretch of Jungle Book (i.e., the exposed "nose" beneath the overhang). So, you join Jungle Book for the last 15 feet or so (including hand jams in the cracks), and rap off using the Jungle Book chains. We used 3.5" x 3/8" rawl bolts and Metolius hangers. Give it a try some sunny day and let us know what you think. It seems to go as a 10b-10c if you keep your hands and feet mostly on the face of the column. We've been referring to it as "Mean Adene", but might have an alternative in the works. . .

Cheers, Scott Urban

From: jesse wees
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 2:26 PM
To: sandy
Subject: Just wondering

Hi Sandy,

Climbed what apears to be a newly established route at the short cliffs on saturday. The climb is 10ft to the right of Bronco Buster and Aunt Fannie. It has four natural colored hangers that lead to a natural colored anchor on a large ledge just to the left of the route. This anchor could also be described as being down and to the right of the Aunt Fannie anchors, on the big ledge. Just wondering about the name and rating...

thanks,
jesse wees

I'm not sure what this route is. Does anybody know?

From: Heather Haley
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 2:33 PM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: a quote for Boise Climbs page

This is a quote that i developed, and i live by it completely...every word of it is who i am.
"I DON'T LIVE MY LIFE ON THE EDGE, I LIFE MY LIFE HANGING OFF THE F***ING
CLIFF!!"

-Heather Haley

From: dewalt
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 10:35 AM
To: sandy@boiseclimbs.com
Subject: new route?

hello,
a couple of days ago i led two routes at the black cliffs along with friend jeff kelly. one immediately to the left of heat miser and one immediately to the right. i just checked your new route page and saw that someone had already done the route to the left. they called it "raptor's revenge" ("pigeon's revenge" would be more appropriate i think) and rated it 5.7 (5.6 might be more accurate). the climb to the right has probably been done as well then since it too can finish at heat miser's anchors. if no one has claimed it, i would like to at least submit a name and rating. i would like to call it "burgermeister meisterberger," and i would give it a 5.7+. it's a nice trad lead and will take small nuts and microcams.

cheers,
scott dewalt

From: LAUGHLIN, JOHN D.
To: <sandy
Subject: Found
Date: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 12:37 PM

Sandy,
I found a harness, belay device, and some carabiners at Mores Mountain on Sunday. You think you could post something on your bulletin board. The owner could email me at
john laughlin@hp.com to identify the items.

Thanks.

John

From: EIDAM, JAMES
To: <smepeldi
Subject: McCall
Date: Monday, July 09, 2001 9:06 AM

Sandy,

I am curious if you know of any climbing in McCall on the north side of the lake near North Beach. I have seen some pretty scary, sparsely placed 1/4" bolts around, but no definite lines. Gravity Sports and Hometown Sports have no beta other than the traditional line on Slick Rock. Let me know,

James,
I know that there has been extensive route development in the McCall area over the years. However, I don't know where you would find specific route info. Is there someone out there who would like to share some beta?

From: CASEY,DAVID
To: <sandy@boiseclimbs.com>
Subject: Lichen Adene 10b/c Trad
Date: Monday, June 18, 2001 10:43 AM

Saturday (6-16-01), I sent the variation of Sweet Adene we were talking about last Wednesday. It's a little harder than I thought. Probably 10b-10c. Double check me, I was the only one to try it. Bring a number 2 Camelot, stuff it high (deep) in the obvious crack. Jam left hand in crack (be sure to tape up), reach high sloper then small corner crack with right hand. Match hands, lay back... rest is easy to top out. Rap off Sweet Adene for now. I may put up anchors on the left face.

david